Rustenberg, Five Soldiers Chardonnay, 2023

South Africa. 100% Chardonnay.

Longevity is perhaps the first word to use in relation to this estate: wine has been bottled at this cellar for an unbroken period since 1892. The potential of the site was first recognised by Roelof Pasman from the Rhine in 1682. The winery was acquired by the Barlow family in 1941, and now run by third generation Murray and his wife Tammy, with their son showing a strong interest in agricultural matters. With 120 hectares under vine, the winery is situated in the foothills of the Simonsberg Mountain. The Five Soldiers vineyard is named after five tall stone pine trees called the “Five Soldiers” that tower over this site.

The season had a number of challenges: a dry winter and spring with significant rain in December combined with very cold conditions, created a lower yield and potentially higher than usual acidity. However, heat waves in January brought balance back into the ripening grapes resulting in excellent concentration with fine acidity plus well-balanced fruit. The grapes were hand-picked in February 2023 and fermented in 300l French oak hogshead barrels, 72% new oak, with 14 months of lees ageing. Only 5,300 bottles produced.

Whenever you serve this wine, people’s eyes widen and they ask what they are tasting. The nose is enticing. The palate just takes your senses to an unexpected level. There is rich, ripe fruit with flavours of melon, mango, and subtle pineapple with finely balanced acidity and excellent length. Yes, it’s from a warm climate, and for a Burgundy-lover, then they might find the ripe fruit a little strong, and the acidity a little light. However, the overall balance is wonderfully structured and it is very, very drinkable. Needs food. Veal in a creamy, mushroom dish springs to mind with new Jersey Royals.

£32.99 - Majestic

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